South African brand MaXhosa Africa brought vibrant knitwear and a message of African unity to the opening day of Paris Women’s Fashion Week on Monday.
Founder Laduma Ngxokolo presented 54 looks in his debut on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, drawing on the continent’s crafts, cultures and geography.
“I feel honoured to be represented. I’ve been fighting to sit at the table for 16 years now,” Ngxokolo, 39, told AFP.
One wool dress featured knitted tassels bearing the names of African countries. Another look placed a large outline of Africa across the front of a black-and-grey outfit, with other parts of the world depicted on its back and sleeves. It referenced a recent effort to show the continent’s size more accurately on maps.
“We appointed ourselves to be one of the forerunners that showcases the African continent to the world,” the Johannesburg-based designer said.
Held at the South African ambassador’s residence, the show featured a live performance by Afro-soul singer Sjava. Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru contributed eyewear and accessories made from upcycled waste.
Ngxokolo founded MaXhosa Africa in 2010, naming it for South Africa’s Xhosa people. The company now employs around 300 people, operates eight stores and makes its knitwear at two factories, in Johannesburg and East London. Michelle Obama and Beyoncé are among its fans.
Growing up, Ngxokolo looked to established names such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton for inspiration. He now wants MaXhosa to demonstrate what an African fashion business can achieve.
“Ninety percent of our products are produced in-house,” he told reporters backstage.
Few designers based in Africa have secured places on the Paris Fashion Week calendar, which is set by France’s Haute Couture and Fashion Federation. The federation has gradually brought more international labels into a programme long dominated by French fashion houses.
In January 2020, Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi became the first designer from sub-Saharan Africa to join the official haute couture calendar.
“We feel that we are still under-represented as the African continent, and more platforms can be offered,” Ngxokolo said. He also stressed the importance of building businesses capable of meeting the demands of an international market.
“I am for professionalism. I am for good quality standards. I am for high standards in everything that we touch,” he said.
His Paris debut came as the fashion industry gathered for 67 scheduled catwalk shows presenting spring-summer 2027 collections. Dozens of other brands are holding private viewings and events across the French capital.
Christian Dior and Saint Laurent are due to show their collections on Tuesday. Monday’s programme also included presentations by Matières Fécales, Julie Kegels, Weinsanto and Hodakova. For Ngxokolo, the first day offered a long-sought place on a global stage, with a collection designed to bring the breadth of Africa into view.
— AFP
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